When you’re planning on following the steps of the traditional samurai by strolling a part of the Nakasendo Path in Japan, you should use this 3-day itinerary to see a number of the highlights.
The Nakasendo Path, also referred to as the Samurai Path, is a 500+ km route that related Kyoto with Edo (now Tokyo) in the course of the Edo Interval. Whilst you can stroll the whole Nakasendo, the best-preserved elements are situated in Gifu and Nagano Prefecture.
On a earlier journey, we employed a automobile and stopped at a number of the 69 submit cities as we have been brief on time. Nevertheless, after seeing how stunning these cities have been, I made a decision I wished to stroll a part of it and see the path in between – which is precisely what we did a couple of months later.
When strolling a part of the Nakasendo, we handed by way of historic cities, valleys, bamboo groves and rice fields. For 3 days, we bought to take pleasure in a chunk of previous Japan and the gorgeous Japanese countryside.
Beneath, I’ve damaged down our three days on the Nakasendo, together with the favored Magome-Tsumago route and the Torii Go to Narai. Let’s have a look.
What’s the Nakasendo Path?
The Nakasendo path (中山道) is an historical route connecting Kyoto with Edo (now Tokyo) created within the Edo Interval. Nakasendo interprets to “internal mountain highway”, because the practically 540 km (340 miles) lengthy route takes you thru the mountains of Kiso Valley.
The highway was primarily utilized by samurai, retailers, monks and feudal lords. Throughout the route, there are 69 post-towns, or shukuba machi (宿場町), the place travellers have been in a position to relaxation, eat and get different provides. A few of these submit cities have been superbly preserved, and make strolling the Nakasendo an actual deal with.
To offer a bit extra background on the Nakasendo and the rationale why so many individuals used to journey such a good distance again within the Edo Interval, it’s essential know a little bit bit in regards to the Tokugawa shogunate. This was the shogunate that dominated Japan in the course of the Edo Interval.
As a strategy to management the feudal lords (daimyōs), the shogunate put a coverage in locations known as the Sankin-kōtai. This coverage meant that feudal lords needed to spend a while in Edo each different yr. As this price numerous money and time, it stopped them from gathering sufficient cash, weapons and other people to overthrow the shogunate.
The shogunate created 5 fundamental highways, also referred to as the Gokaidō (五街道), connecting Edo with the remainder of Japan. The Nakasendo was the first route used, connecting Kyoto (the previous capital) with Edo.
Nakasendo Path Itinerary Overview & Map
As the total Nakasendo stretches over 500 km, I picked a couple of smaller elements to stroll throughout three days. Some elements embrace taking a bus or practice to get to the most effective elements of the route with out having to stroll an excessive amount of day by day. If you wish to stroll further, you may skip the general public transport.
Right here is the route we walked throughout three days:
- Day 1: Nakatsugawa (bus) Magome (stroll) Tsumago (stroll or bus) Nagiso
- Day 2: Nagiso (stroll) Nojiri (practice) Kiso-Fukushima
- Day 3: Kiso-Fukushima (practice) Yabuhara (stroll) Narai-Juku (practice) Matsumoto.
The route between Magome and Tsumago might be the most well-liked a part of the Nakasendo, because it’s extremely stunning and really straightforward to achieve from Nagoya. When you solely have in the future to stroll part of the Nakasendo, that is usually the route folks select. As that is the most well-liked half, it additionally will get a bit busy – so when you have further time, I’d extremely suggest including a few days to your time on the Nakasendo.
The Torii Go, between Yabuhara and Narai-Juku, might be the second hottest a part of the total route, but in addition a bit harder in comparison with the opposite two days on this itinerary. At 1,197 meters in elevation, the Torii Go provides you some wonderful views and takes you to Narai-juku, which is likely one of the best-preserved submit cities alongside the whole route.
The complete Nakasendo is an extended path, however there are practice strains that comply with a big a part of it. So relying on how a lot you wish to stroll day by day, it’s attainable to shorten the times and take the practice in the direction of one of many subsequent stops. We did this a few instances to ensure we match all of the spots we wished to go to in three days.
Most lodging on the Nakasendo additionally provide pick-up and drop-offs on the nearest practice station, so that you don’t must stroll all the way in which. It requires a little bit of planning, but it surely’s very doable. I’ve shared the lodging we used a bit additional down this information.
3-Day Nakasendo Path Itinerary
The evening earlier than we began our stroll on the Nakasendo, we stayed in a single day in Nakatsugawa to benefit from our time there. From Nagoya, you may get the practice to Nakatsugawa in simply over an hour. Nakatsugawa is on the Nakasendo and likewise has frequent buses that may take you to Magome, which is the beginning of our first day.
We stayed at Onn Nakatsugawa, which I’d extremely suggest. The lodge is simply a brief stroll from the practice and bus stations, has snug rooms and a tremendous public bathtub the place you may loosen up earlier than beginning your stroll.
The lodge additionally affords baggage transport providers, which we used to ship our suitcases to Matsumoto, the place we ended our three days on the Nakasendo. That means, we solely needed to carry a small backpack with necessities for our stroll.
Day 1: Magome – Tsumago
- Overview: Take the bus from Nakatsugawa to Magome. From Magome, stroll to Tsumago (8km). From Tsumago, you may both take a bus to Nagiso Station or stroll an further 3.5 km to get to the station.
- Lodging suggestion: Hostel Yui-an in Nagiso.
Within the morning, we began at Nakatsugawa. As this city can also be a part of the Nakasendo, you may stroll from right here, however as we solely had three days, we took the bus. The bus from Nakatsugawa to Magome prices ¥570 for adults (¥290 for kids) and takes about 25 minutes.
The buses run very often and you could find the up to date schedule right here. It’s not attainable to pre-book tickets for this bus, so be sure you present up on time.
The route between Magome and Tsumago is the hottest a part of the Nakasendo, so don’t be shocked in case you see numerous different hikers right here. Fortunately, it will likely be a lot quieter within the subsequent two days. And regardless of the teams of hikers, the Magome–Tsumago path is totally gorgeous. The 8km path ought to take you round three hours.
When you get to Magome (馬籠), you’ll instantly see why the Nakasendo carries a lot historic and cultural significance. The cobblestoned streets, the historically restored picket buildings and the waterwheels on the aspect of the highway make it really feel such as you’ve stepped again a whole bunch of years.
The bus will drop you off firstly of Magome, permitting you to stroll uphill by way of the city’s fundamental avenue. You’ll cross some small eating places, cafes and retailers – all in conventional picket homes.
Magome is written with the kanji for “horse” and “basket”. In keeping with the Gifu Prefecture web site, the identify comes from the truth that the hills have been usually too steep for horses to climb, which meant many travellers left their horses in Magome. And whereas the highway by way of the city is certainly a bit steep, you don’t must rush.
Earlier than leaving Magome to start out your stroll to Tsumago, you may get a stamp card from the tourism board for a few hundred yen. You may get it stamped in Magome and Tsumago and serves as a certificates to point out you’ve accomplished this a part of the trial. It’s made with native hinoki cypress wooden, making for a stunning memento.
Earlier than leaving the Magome space, you’ll additionally cross the city’s previous bulletin board. This huge picket board was used as a spot to share official bulletins from the Shogunate within the Edo Interval. You could find related boards in different submit cities. You’ll must proceed strolling to comply with the route in the direction of Tsumago, and you may get a stunning view from simply after the bulletin board right here.
The stroll between Magome and Tsumago is extremely stunning. You’ll stroll by way of pretty forests and previous townscapes, previous waterfalls and rivers, all on the traditional cobblestones. Midway by way of the stroll, be sure you cease on the Ichikokutochi Tateba Chaya.
This 250-year-old farmhouse has been serving as a relaxation cease for travellers of the Nakasendo Path for hundreds of years. Ran by Mr. Matsubara, the teahouse affords free tea and a relaxation place for individuals who stroll the Magome–Tsumago route.
The constructing itself is superbly saved and the hosts are so welcoming. There’s even a big signal exterior the place you may write your nation of origin on, as so many overseas guests have come to this teahouse over the previous years.
After the total 2-3 hour stroll, you’ll arrive in Tsumago. I most popular the appear and feel of Tsumago to Magome, because it felt much more conventional and fewer “touristy”.
Automobiles aren’t allowed to enter the city in the course of the day and no energy strains are in sight. The city additionally has some strict guidelines in opposition to promoting or destroying any of the standard properties within the city to take care of the Edo Interval appear and feel.
Each instances we visited Tsumago (throughout our Nakansendo stroll and our cease in the course of the drive by way of Kiso Valley earlier that yr), we stopped for lunch at Yamagiri Shokudo. This old-school restaurant affords scrumptious udon served with contemporary mountain greens.
From Tsumago, you may take a bus to Nagiso Station, which prices ¥300 per individual. It solely takes about 10 minutes, because it solely covers round 3.5 km. The bus schedule may be discovered right here. When you have sufficient vitality left, I extremely suggest strolling to Nagiso Station as a substitute of taking the bus.
Whereas the Magome–Tsumago route is extremely stunning, it was in all probability my least favorite a part of the three days of mountaineering because it was so busy. As most individuals who solely stroll for in the future will cease at Tsumago, the additional 3.5 km from Tsumago to Nagiso Station will add numerous worth.
Other than a few native youngsters strolling house from faculty, we have been just about the one folks there. Plus, we bought to cease at a stunning temple known as Kabuto Kannon. The doorways of the temple have been barely opened and inside laid a visitor e book the place you may signal your identify and nation of origin.
From Nagiso Station, we have been picked up by our host from Hostel Yui-an. He drove us to his superbly renovated farmhouse the place we stayed the evening.
Lodging: Hostel Yui-an
I wished to provide a bit of additional consideration to this wonderful place, because it blew me away. In the midst of the mountains of Kiso Valley, this 200-year-old farmhouse has been renovated into a comfortable, welcoming inn. With unimaginable mountain views, a lovely genuine inside and really welcoming hosts (Hiro and Rei), I can’t suggest this place sufficient.
Hostel doesn’t fairly seem to be the precise phrase for it, it’s extra like a distinctive inn with a ryokan really feel. Whereas it does have a shared rest room, there’s solely room for 2 events to remain on the farm, so that you don’t must share it with many individuals. We even had a personal bathe with our room, and all of the bogs have been very clear.
Once we arrived, we have been proven to our room and had a while to seize a fast bathe earlier than dinner was served. The futons have been already ready in our room, together with a small aspect heater to maintain the room good and toasty. The inside of the lounge and bar space is unimaginable – there’s a lot to have a look at!
After dinner, my husband and I stayed across the bar to speak with the opposite couple that was saying within the farmhouse that evening. We additionally tried the sake tasting for ¥500. Our host poured 5 cups of sake, all made within the Nagano Prefecture, and we bought to be taught extra in regards to the completely different tastes.
Breakfast was additionally nice, filling us up for an additional stroll forward of us. We bought to speak with Rei a bit extra too, who confirmed us photos of the renovation of the farmhouse. If we weren’t on a decent schedule strolling the Nakasendo, I want we may’ve stayed for a pair extra nights.
Because the host affords free pick-up and drop-off at Nagiso Station, it additionally works nice once you’re following this Nakasendo itinerary. Even higher but, the hostel sits on the Nakasendo, so you may actually stroll straight from it in your second day (like we did!).
Day 2: Nagiso – Nojiri
- Overview: From Hostel Yui-an, stroll in the direction of Nojiri-juku station by way of the Nenoue Go (12.5 km), which takes round 4–5 hours. From there, take the practice to Kiso-Fukushima, the place you’ll keep the evening.
- Lodging suggestion: Morino Lodge in Kiso-Fukushima.
As Hostel Yui-an sits on the Nakasendo Path, you can begin strolling immediately. In comparison with the primary day, the distinction within the variety of folks was surprising. Your complete day, we solely got here throughout two different hikers throughout our stroll, together with a small group at Nojiri Station.
The stroll from Nagiso to Nojiri takes you thru dense forest with hanging inexperienced moss, lush rice paddies and exquisite conventional homes within the Japanese countryside. We stopped by a few small temples and loved the silence of the forest – it was so peaceable.
As there aren’t as many individuals on this path, it’s price holding a bear bell hooked up to your bag. We got here throughout many indicators warning for bears, and even some bigger bells scattered by way of the forest.
The stroll did embrace some climbs and felt a bit extra strenuous than the primary day. It took us round 4.5 hours to finish the 12.5 km. In Nojiri, we had lunch at Espresso Katana earlier than getting on the practice in the direction of Kiso-Fukushima. The practice itself takes round half-hour, but it surely solely leaves as soon as each couple of hours, so it’s price checking the practice instances earlier than stopping someplace for lunch.
Relying on how a lot time you will have left when you arrive in Kiso-Fukushima, it’s price having a little bit stroll round. Kiso is a quiet, sleepy city in the course of the Kiso Valley, however has some pretty conventional streets to take pleasure in, together with a free foot onsen close to the river.
Kiso-Fukushima can also be well-known for the rolling pageant, and you may go to a small free museum devoted to it. Through the pageant, a conveyable shrine is rolled time and again within the streets, following an area fable the place two folks have been attacked and rolled a shrine to Kiso-Fukushima over 700 years in the past!
As lodging is scarce round these elements of the Kiso Valley, our lodge is a small automobile experience from the city. Nevertheless, Morino Lodge affords free pick-up and drop-off providers from the practice station. The rooms have a standard ambiance (though barely outdated, however very clear) with pretty thick futons. The on-site public bathtub was wonderful – I slept amazingly after an extended soak.
Day 3: Yabuhara – Narai-juku By means of the Torii Pas
- Overview: From Morino Lodge, get dropped off at Kiso-Fukushima Station the place you’re taking the practice to Yabuhara Station. From Yabuhara, stroll to Narai-juku by way of the Torii Go (8.5 km), which takes round 2.5–3 hours. After exploring Narai-juku, you may take the practice in the direction of Matsumoto, ending our Nakasendo itinerary.
- Lodging suggestion: Tabino Lodge in Matsumoto.
On the third and final day of this Nakasendo itinerary, we stroll the second-most standard a part of the Nakasendo Path. That is the Torii Go (鳥居峠), which takes you from Yabuhara to Narai (奈良井). Elements of this 8.5 km route are fairly steep and are thought-about a average hike. I undoubtedly needed to cease a couple of instances to catch my breath.
We began the day by being dropped off at Kiso-Fukushima Station by one of many drivers of the lodge. From there, we took the practice to Yabuhara Station. Once more, it’s attainable to stroll from Kiso-Fukushima to Yabuhara, however as we solely had three days on the Nakasendo, we determined to take the practice. The practice doesn’t run usually, so be sure you verify the practice instances beforehand!
From Yabuhara Station, we set off in the direction of the beginning of the Torii Go. Yabuhara is a captivating little city, with a couple of shrines you may cease by (together with 藪原神社, which has a lovely pink torii gate).
As with the remainder of the Nakasendo Path, indicators in Japanese and English clearly present you which ones strategy to go. At each crossing, you’ll be directed the precise means, making it very onerous to get misplaced.
Following the indicators out of Yabuhara city, you’ll slowly make your strategy to the beginning of the Torii Go. The best level of this cross sits at 1,197 meters in elevation, 320 of which it’s a must to climb uphill in the course of the first half of the hike. Whereas a little bit difficult, it’s a really rewarding hike, taking you previous some stunning vistas and shrines alongside the way in which.
Ontake Jinja sits across the midway level. The shrine has a hanging white torii gate on high of a small hill. The torii seems to be out in the direction of the timber behind it, it’s stunning from the highest. The stroll downhill in the direction of Narai is lots simpler and takes you thru some pretty, dense forests.
Regardless that it was a bit powerful in some elements because it was a bit steep, we managed to get to Narai round midday. This gave us greater than sufficient time to discover the city and have some well-deserved lunch.
Out of the 69 submit cities alongside the Nakasendo, Narai-juku was the wealthiest. Prior to now, it was known as “Narai of a Thousand Homes” because it was additionally one of many largest cities. It stretches throughout a couple of completely different roads, which is far bigger than the opposite post-towns we visited over the previous couple of days.
Narai is superbly preserved, and you may simply spend a few hours wandering round. Regardless of having such a stunning genuine ambiance, vehicles are allowed to drive right here (in distinction to Tsumago) which generally ruins the phantasm barely.
From Narai-juku, we took the practice to Matsumoto, which concluded our time on the Nakasendo. We might’ve beloved to remain in Narai-juku for the evening, however all of the lodging was booked up already.
When you do handle to get a ryokan in Narai-juku, chances are you’ll wish to depart a little bit bit later within the morning although, as the total hike by way of the Torii Go doesn’t take too lengthy – or add the stroll from Kiso-Fukishima as a part of that day as a substitute of taking the practice.
The place to Keep on the Nakasendo
Lodging on the Nakasendo is a little more scattered and tricker to search out than in huge cities like Tokyo or Kyoto. Nevertheless, it’s nonetheless very doable to e book it your self and save a ton of cash (as a substitute of going with an organised tour).
Beneath, I’ve listed the accommodations/inns that we used on this Nakasendo itinerary. All are on the route, provide pick-up from the closest station and have a public bathtub:
- Onn Nakatsugawa (Day 0): A couple of minutes stroll from the practice and bus stations, Onn Nakatsugawa is a lovely lodge with onsite public baths, snug beds and proper on the Nakasendo. An ideal place to remain the evening earlier than you begin your stroll.
- Hostel Yui-an in Nagiso (Day 1): This superbly renovated farm made for an unforgettable keep, it was unimaginable! Regardless that it’s known as a “hostel”, it’s not fairly the identical. There are two visitor rooms with one shared rest room, so that you’re solely sharing with one different group of friends. You get your personal room with a comfortable futon. Dinner and breakfast may also be organized. The proprietor will choose you up from Nagiso Station if most popular. Plus, because it’s situated on the Nakasendo, you may stroll straight from the hostel within the morning.
- Morino Lodge in Kiso-Fukushima (Day 2): A barely order lodge, however for a really inexpensive value. Somebody from the lodge will come choose you up from Kiso Station, and drop you off once more within the morning at your most popular time. The ryokan-style rooms got here with thick futons and the onsite onsen was wonderful after an extended day of strolling.
- Tabino Lodge Matsumoto (Day 3): As all lodging in Narai was booked up, we determined to journey onwards to Matsumoto on the finish of our final day on the Nakasendo. We’ve stayed on the Tabino Lodge in Matsumoto a couple of instances now throughout a number of journeys as we merely adore it. It’s near the practice station and a number of the rooms even include a small kitchen and washer. As we have been planning to spend a while in Matsumoto afterwards, it labored out nice!
Be sure to e book as quickly as attainable, as there aren’t too many choices for lodging alongside the Nakasendo. If the accommodations above are already booked up, the most effective factor to do is to make use of the reserving.com map instrument. That means, you may scan the map near the tip or place to begin for the times you’re planning to stroll and discover a lodge close by.
From analysis, I’ve seen that numerous lodging on this space will provide a pick-up and drop-off on the nearest station. The bulk additionally affords some type of dinner and breakfast – and it’s highlighted in the event that they don’t so you may be sure you eat earlier than getting picked up.
Greatest Time to Stroll the Nakasendo Path
As with most areas of Japan, the most effective time to go to the Nakasendo Path is both throughout spring (March till Could) or autumn (October to November). Nevertheless, the path is open all yr spherical and may be loved throughout all seasons.
I walked this Nakasendo Path route in November and it appeared like the proper time to take action. The climate was nonetheless nice, with gentle temperatures and no rain. It even bought a bit too heat at some factors, the place I needed to take off my jacket and proceed strolling in simply my T-shirt. The autumn leaves have been vibrant pink, treating us to a number of the most stunning sights.
The primary time I visited a number of the submit cities on the Nakasendo was in spring – once we rented a automobile and drove previous Magome, Tsugamo and Narai. Regardless of it being busier than in November, it was stunning to see the timber in bloom and the intense inexperienced fields.
What to Pack for the Nakasendo Path
For this 3-day Nakasendo Path itinerary, we used a baggage forwarding service to take our greater suitcase from Nakatsugawa to Matsumoto. For the three days on the path, we used our backpack and introduced the next:
- Underwear and socks for 3 days
- Toiletries (deodorant, toothpaste, toothbrush, make-up, make-up remover, primary skincare, blister plasters)
- Small flannel
- Refillable bottle of water
- Some snacks
- Pyjamas
- Three clear t-shirts
- One fleece jumper
- One pair of mountaineering trousers
- Mountaineering footwear
- Some money.
Conclusion – Is the Nakasendo Path Price Visiting?
The Nakasendo Path may be a tremendous addition to your time in Japan. It’s 100% price visiting if you wish to see extra of rural Japan. The superbly preserved cities and unimaginable landscapes, forests, mountains and rivers offer you an actual appreciation for the Japanese countryside.
When you’re planning to stroll the Nakasendo, I’d urge you to go for greater than in the future. So many individuals solely stroll the half between Magome and Tsumago path because it’s straightforward to achieve from Nagoya and solely takes 2–3 hours.
Nevertheless, regardless of being a lovely a part of the Nakasendo, it’s very busy and turned out to be my least favorite day on the path as a result of variety of different hikers. Even strolling from Tsumago to Nagiso on our first day was far more gratifying for me, leaving the strains of individuals behind. The opposite two days on the Nakasendo have been means much less busy and have been far more gratifying!
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