Europe has some superb winter resorts. Most individuals robotically head to the Alps, but it surely’s completely price conserving an open thoughts for different mountain ranges, particularly if you happen to like issues a bit extra relaxed and genuine.
Enter the Pyrenees.
The Pyrenees provide a extra rugged, wild-feeling different to the Alps, with smaller villages, friendlier value tags, and correct mountain character. You possibly can experience powder within the morning and finish the day soaking in thermal swimming pools or lingering over a hearty dinner in a stone-built village.
Final summer time I used to be already within the space and people rock formations actually surprised me – under no circumstances what I anticipated. So I used to be significantly trying ahead to coming again in winter, testing the pistes and situations with a snowboard below my toes.
Right here is an outline:
Why go? Genuine attraction, usually decrease costs than many big-name Alpine resorts, and the possibility to expertise totally different valleys and vibes in a single journey.
Should do: Spend a day snowboarding or snowboarding the Pic du Midi space or Saint-Lary-Soulan, then unwind in one of many thermal baths that the area is known for.
Professional tip: Renting a automotive makes it a lot simpler to hop between valleys, ski areas and villages, however in winter you’ll need winter tyres or snow chains – mountain passes right here can get correctly snowy.
On this journey I rode the areas round Pic du Midi (Grand Tourmalet), plus Vallée du Louron, Saint-Lary-Soulan and Piau Engaly / Peyragudes.
If you wish to plan your personal route by way of the French Pyrenees, the official vacation spot website pyrenees-holiday.com is a very helpful hub for concepts, maps and present information.
Arrival within the French Pyrenees
Often I pack my automotive and drive 8–9 hours into the Alps, with the entire automotive swallowed by snowboard gear. From my hometown to the Pyrenees, although, it might be nearer to a 15-hour drive, so this time I went for the flight possibility. I flew into Toulouse, which is then roughly a 2-hour drive to quite a lot of the primary ski valleys… way more reasonable for an extended weekend.
Subsequent time, if I keep longer, I’d most likely drive once more, only for the pliability.
It’s additionally price checking if you will get a flight to Tarbes–Lourdes–Pyrénées Airport, which is nearer to resorts like Grand Tourmalet and Saint-Lary than Toulouse. There’s additionally Altiport Peyresourde–Balestas (close to Peyragudes), which is used for small plane and typically winter operations, however schedules are restricted and really seasonal. All the time double-check routes and availability on your dates.
And sure, there may be that one “shitty airline” flying into a few of these smaller airports – many individuals use it fairly fortunately. I nonetheless keep away from for good causes. 😏
Picture by CallumJelley, INTERSPORT.
Rental Gear
As a substitute of paying a heavy baggage price to convey my very own snowboard, I rented my complete setup at an Intersport store within the resort – together with boots. That meant I might journey with hand baggage solely and nonetheless have every little thing I wanted for a correct snowboard journey. I simply clipped my helmet onto the surface of my small backpack and no one minded. If they’d, it might have change into my “flight-security-helmet”. 😉
On my subsequent journey I’ll convey my very own boots. Rental boots had been OKish, however with my very own I do know I get the precise grip and match I like.
The remainder? That’s as much as Intersport, and I used to be very pleased with the rental gear. The standard of rental skis and snowboards is prime, and also you’ll discover Intersport retailers in just about each main ski resort, usually multiple. So getting gear isn’t any problem, and costs are truthful… 19 € per day for a weekend rental, is great worth in comparison with airline baggage charges.
For reference, a 3‑day rental (snowboard + boots) price:
- 56 € net value
- 53 € constancy value
- 112 € in-store value
It’s roughly 14 € cheaper if you happen to convey your personal boots. Helmet rental could be round 12 € for 3 days. Costs do range between retailers and resorts, but it surely’s nonetheless usually cheaper than paying for cumbersome sports activities baggage on a flight.
You possibly can browse choices and e-book your gear forward of time right here: www.intersportrent.com
Intersport runs greater than 750 ski rent retailers throughout the Alps and Pyrenees, so that you’re not often removed from a store or rental counter within the larger resorts. Renting on-site saves airline baggage charges, lightens what you haul by way of airports, and ensures you get freshly serviced skis or boards arrange by individuals who do that all season.
You possibly can usually swap tools if situations change (e.g., go from an all‑mountain board to one thing extra freeride‑oriented, or from piste skis to one thing with extra float). Many retailers even have fashionable boot-fitting setups, together with Boot Physician scanners in chosen places, which assist to match the best becoming boots to your toes.
Ski and Snowboard Baggage with Air France
For those who wish to include their very own gear. Likely you’ll get a flight with Air France and so they deal with ski and snowboard tools as normal baggage, so long as it suits inside your checked baggage allowance and also you’re not on a “Mild” fare. In apply meaning: one pair of skis with poles and boots, or one snowboard with boots, in acceptable luggage with a mixed size below 300 cm. Boots could be in a separate bag, however ski/board bag plus boot bag depend as one piece.
If you’d like additional luggage or exceed measurement/weight, you pay additional choices on-line or on the airport. Helmets within the cabin depend as a part of your hand baggage. ABS avalanche backpacks should be declared prematurely and permitted no less than 48 hours earlier than departure because of security rules. For the most recent baggage guidelines and any modifications, at all times double-check the present Air France Baggage Information on their web site earlier than you fly.
Ski resort La Mongie and Pic du Midi
The primary cease within the French Pyrenees was La Mongie. We arrived after darkish, catching solely silhouettes of the mountains round us. Waking up and pulling again the curtains is the magic second on any mountain journey… and right here it was only a sea of white, with mountains rolling off in each course.
La Mongie is on the Grand Tourmalet area, named after the well-known Tourmalet cross from the Tour de France. The ski space hyperlinks La Mongie on one aspect with Barèges on the opposite, giving an excellent mixture of lengthy groomers, broad pistes and extra adventurous areas when the snow is correct.
Within the morning we grabbed our gear and hit many of the the pistes and likewise the one which run from La Mongie throughout into the broader Grand Tourmalet space. Round noon we took the cable automotive as much as Pic du Midi, most likely essentially the most iconic summit within the French Pyrenees. This peak is house to an observatory, a museum space, a restaurant and an enormous viewing terrace. On a transparent day, you get severe, horizon‑filling views over Pyrenees ridgelines and much into Spain.
Contained in the complicated, there are exhibitions in regards to the website’s historical past and astronomy, plus tools like sun-tracking telescopes. It’s genuinely spectacular how they constructed and preserve all of this on a excessive, uncovered summit. The restaurant du Pic du Midi was the ultimate contact that made it even higher.
Sensible information (tickets, restaurant, opening particulars): picdumidi.com
Should you like going off‑piste, it’s potential to experience down from Pic du Midi, greatest with a information and solely when the situations are secure. There’s a flatter part between steeper pitches which could be annoying on a snowboard, particularly if the snow is gradual, so preserve that in thoughts. I selected to experience from the mid‑station as an alternative, which ought to have been a playful line. On my day it was icy, so it wasn’t fairly the dreamy pow run – however on the best day, this space is a traditional Pyrenees freeride expertise.
Restaurant du Pic du Midi
The Restaurant du Pic du Midi sits on the base of the museum complicated on the prime cable automotive station. The inside is easy, minimalist and fashionable – first impression is sort of canteen‑like – however the plates that come out of the kitchen are way more refined than that vibe suggests.
Elements are sourced regionally from producers within the area, and so they’re listed on the menu, which is a pleasant contact if you happen to prefer to know the place your meals comes from. Workers had been pleasant and environment friendly, and, in fact, the actual star is the massive panorama outdoors the home windows.
Data and reservations:
Hôtel La Voie Lactée (La Mongie)
This lodge turned out to be an excellent choose. It’s a 4‑star property proper by the slopes in La Mongie that was fully renovated and reopened in 2023, and it reveals: every little thing from the foyer to the rooms appears to be like contemporary, heat and thoughtfully designed.
The decor is fashionable with out feeling excessive – a lot of good materials, colors and particulars, even the crockery stands out. Workers had been pleasant and switched simply into good English, which helped rather a lot since my French is… not nice. My room was tremendous snug, with wonderful bedding and a number of the coziest pillows and mattress I’ve had shortly. Getting up early for first lifts was genuinely a problem.
The lodge additionally leans and truly pushes sustainability, which is so necessary! For instance, the stylish wash basin in my lavatory was constituted of recycled plastic collected on French seashores. It seemed good and that’s one of many some ways to do it proper.
Breakfast was one other spotlight: diverse, beneficiant and with loads of good-quality native merchandise. The view from my room, searching over snow‑coated peaks and lifts heading up into the mountains, was a type of views you keep in mind lengthy after you’ve checked out.
Peyragudes and Vallée du Louron
Subsequent up was Peyragudes, and that is the place the storm actually kicked in. It began snowing throughout the evening and simply didn’t cease. Till late within the afternoon there was sufficient contemporary snow that you possibly can do powder activates the pistes themselves. Visibility got here and went – one second you noticed the following marker, the following you had been in a white bubble – which made it fairly difficult for rookies, however for powder lovers it was a enjoyable setup.
There are many chairlifts in Peyragudes, so even on a weekend we barely queued. It wasn’t a loopy busy interval anyway, and having a mixture of broad pistes and ungroomed edges made it straightforward to search out your personal strains. Peyragudes sits above the Louron Valley, which has actually leaned into a mixture of snowboarding, thermal baths and out of doors actions, so it’s an excellent base if you happen to like selection over per week.
L’étape du rider by chez Manu
After reducing some strains within the contemporary snow we stopped for lunch at L’étape du rider, a small, cosy hut proper on the piste. Location‑sensible it’s supreme: clip out of your bindings, stroll a number of steps, and also you’re inside with one thing sizzling in your palms.
On busy days, it’s sensible to order, particularly if you wish to sit inside. On sunny days, the terrace is the place to be, with views over the slopes when the clouds clear. The menu runs from correct meals like burgers and lasagne to sizzling sweets and mulled wine. The whole lot we tried was tasty, the service was cheerful, and the environment felt relaxed moderately than rushed. I acquired instructed the mountain views are often nice – I primarily noticed a wall of snowflakes.
Maison La Flambée (Bordères-Louron)
Maison La Flambée is a giant, cosy cottage in Bordères-Louron that’s good if you happen to’re travelling with a bunch or as a household. It hits that candy spot between character and practicality: a lot of bedrooms, a number of bogs, a totally outfitted kitchen and sufficient house that individuals can unfold out a bit.
There’s an enormous kitchen the place you possibly can cook dinner large meals collectively, a pool desk for evenings, a heat oven, and a terrace the place you possibly can sit out when the climate permits. It really works nicely for multi‑technology journeys or a bunch of buddies. The encircling Louron Valley is gorgeous and affords snowboarding, mountaineering, and loads of slower‑paced “simply chill out” time. The house owners are pleasant and really palms‑on if you happen to need assistance with something.
Aside Resort des Cols
Aside Resort des Cols is one other stable base within the space. Rooms are properly embellished, beds are snug, and every little thing feels nicely maintained. Small touches like intelligent lighting and correct blackout blinds make a giant distinction after lengthy days within the snow.
Every unit has a little bit kitchen nook with what that you must put collectively breakfast or easy meals. By automotive it’s straightforward to achieve Loudenvielle and Saint-Lary, so you possibly can ski one valley, soak in one other and nonetheless be again at your house and not using a lengthy drive. It really works nicely if you wish to discover on foot, by bike or by automotive in different seasons, and in winter it’s shut sufficient to the lifts to make ski days simple. The bar space is an efficient spot to unwind with a drink and meet different friends. Should you ought to determine to have raclette within the night, don’t bbq your meat on the prime… if you happen to do, watch the hearth alarm. 😏
Balnéa Spa (Loudenvielle)
After a full day on the mountain, Balnéa in Loudenvielle is a traditional place to decelerate. It’s the primary massive thermal leisure centre within the French Pyrenees, set proper within the Louron Valley, and makes use of naturally sulfurous thermal water in its swimming pools. There are themed areas impressed by totally different bathing cultures – Roman, Japanese, Inca, Native American – plus a separate Tibetan zone targeted on therapies and massages.
You’ll discover each indoor and out of doors swimming pools, together with areas aimed toward households and extra quiet corners (no less than in idea). When it’s busy, count on noise virtually in all places, particularly within the household swimming pools; one pool was full of small youngsters and infants once I visited, so be ready for that.
Males aren’t allowed to put on swim shorts; tight‑becoming swimwear is required, and you should purchase an appropriate pair on the entrance for round 16 €. I do not know why, but it surely appears to be some sort of unusual legislation in France.
Sensible information and present costs:
Saint-Lary-Soulan
The snow nonetheless didn’t let up once we moved on to Saint-Lary-Soulan, which made for an additional wonderful day on the board. A part of our group went totally off‑piste with a information. It was my first journey again into the snow that season and my ankle was nonetheless complaining after torn ligaments, so I made a decision to dial it again a bit and stayed “principally” on marked runs.
Judging by the images I noticed afterwards, that was not my most impressed resolution. They scored deep powder and large smiles. I nonetheless had a enjoyable day lapping the pistes, however subsequent time I’ll be extra tempted to affix our information Polo on the steeper strains.
You begin your day by taking the gondola from the village of Saint-Lary-Soulan as much as Pla d’Adet. From there, the ski space opens up with totally different sectors and an excellent mixture of runs. Situations for us had been improbable – contemporary snow, clouds principally sitting decrease within the valleys, and good visibility increased up.
Saint-Lary-Soulan’s ski space is among the largest within the Pyrenees, with round 100–105 km of pistes between roughly 1,600 and a couple of,515 metres altitude, served by about two dozen lifts. It stretches from the village (a correct spa city within the valley) as much as excessive, open slopes with lengthy runs and a good snowpark.
We kicked issues off at Pla d’Adet with a espresso at La Bergerie, then spent the day exploring totally different pistes and following one of the best snow.
Les 3 Guides
Les 3 Guides is a helpful spot to take a break within the Saint-Lary ski space. It’s near a elevate, so you possibly can simply time a fast cease between laps or use it as a extra relaxed lunch base. Workers had been pleasant, fast and environment friendly, even when issues acquired busy.
You possibly can seize something from a easy espresso or a chilly drink to full plates and snacks. On sunny days, the large terrace is the place you wish to be, searching over the slopes. If the climate turns, the indoor space is cosy sufficient to cover from the wind and snowfall for some time.
The City Saint-Lary-Soulan
Saint-Lary-Soulan itself is a giant a part of why this space works so nicely for a winter journey. It’s a correct Pyrenean village moderately than only a function‑constructed resort, with stone homes, slender streets and a centre that feels lived‑in yr‑spherical. In winter, every little thing is geared in the direction of skiers and snowboarders, however you continue to get that small‑city environment moderately than simply rows of condo blocks.
The village is named a spa city, with a thermal centre (Sensoria) that makes use of sizzling spring water from the valley. After a day on the slopes you possibly can swap your boots for a swimsuit and soak in heat swimming pools with mountain views. The primary avenue is lined with bars, eating places and retailers, plus a vacationer workplace the place you possibly can choose up maps or information on snowshoes, off‑piste guides and winter mountaineering.
What a shock… there may be even an Irish Pub.
Saint-Lary can also be a hub for different actions within the Aure Valley: snowshoe journeys, sledding, ice waterfalls in chilly spells, canine sledding and even paragliding flights when the climate cooperates. The valley additionally offers entry to wild corners of the Pyrenees just like the Néouvielle Nature Reserve and Lac de l’Oule space, which you’ll be able to attain from the resort through ski runs or lifts after which discover with a information.
The village itself sits roughly 2 hours by street from Toulouse and about an hour from the Spanish border through the tunnel, which makes it straightforward to mix a French Pyrenees base with a aspect‑journey into Spain you probably have a automotive.
Le Gros Minet
Le Gros Minet is a type of Saint-Lary-Soulan addresses that locals and returning friends are inclined to know. Tucked simply off the primary avenue in a small deadlock, it has been round for many years and mixes a relaxed tapas‑bar really feel with a correct grill restaurant. Assume full of life environment, wooden‑fired flavours and plates which might be made for sharing after an extended day within the chilly.
The menu leans in the direction of conventional French cooking with a Pyrenean twist: grilled meats cooked over charcoal, hearty dishes, salads and tapas‑type small plates you possibly can cut up with the desk. It’s not haute delicacies, however hearty, satisfying meals with beneficiant parts. I selected the duck burger, which was yummy. The eating room is compact and fills up shortly in peak weeks, so reserving forward is strongly really useful throughout the winter season.
Why the French Pyrenees Are Value It
After this journey, it’s fairly clear why the French Pyrenees deserve extra consideration from skiers and snowboarders: you get severe mountains, good snow, and sufficient terrain to maintain you busy for per week – however with a extra laid‑again vibe and often higher worth than many large Alpine names.
You possibly can mix totally different valleys like Grand Tourmalet, Vallée du Louron and Aure Valley, combine powder days with thermal baths, and base your self in actual villages like Saint-Lary-Soulan or Loudenvielle that also really feel alive outdoors peak weeks. With straightforward gear rental by way of networks like Intersport, plus airports like Toulouse and Tarbes-Lourdes not too distant, establishing an extended weekend or a full week is easy.
Should you like the concept of huge mountains however smaller crowds for much less cash, and swapping the traditional Alpine clichés for one thing a bit extra rugged and genuine, the French Pyrenees needs to be very excessive in your winter listing.
